Because these little pigs are so smart, training yours to wear a harness may be easier than you thought. If you follow these simple steps, you and your pot- bellied pig will be walking together in no time!

1. Once your little pet pig has his or her harness on, attach the leash. Then drop it, allowing him to roam wherever the pot bellied pig wants to go.

2. Then, pick up the leash, but still allow your pet to wander around your house freely.

3. For a few days, offer your pot-bellied pig a treat, while calling him by name and tugging on the leash.

4. Your little pet should be trained to walk on a leash now! However, he may not be walking beside you. To train this, simply head off at your normal speed, calling out whatever version of “walk” you want to use regularly.

5. Reward your little pet pig if he keeps up with you. If this doesn’t happen though, move as far away as you can (still holding the leash) and call your pot bellied pig’s name. When he or she reaches you, head off again and give your pet the treat.

6. Repeat #5 as needed, but you won’t have to very much! Pot bellied pigs are so smart they don’t need a lot of training for most things.

As you prepare to train your little pet pig, keep in mind that pigs are preyed on in the wild. Because of this, your pot bellied pig may struggle and freak out when first wearing the training harness. This is common, so don’t freak out too! Remain calm, saying soothing things to your pig. Soon, trust will take over. You’ll have your smart little pot- bellied pig walking on a leash in no time!

Words beginning with vowels
Add an H to the beginning of the word, and change it the way you would a word starting with a consonant – eg. armadillo becomes armadillohay; arch becomes arch-hay

Words beginning with two consonants
When two consonants together make one sound ( chocolate, front) treat them like a single letter. It is easier if the whole sound +ay is moved to the end of the word, instead of breaking them up and saying hitsay over itshay – eg. chocolate becomes ocolate-chay; front becomes ontfray

When to hyphenate
You don’t have to if you don’t want to. I just think it’s easier to use hyphens in certain cases. Like with ocolate-chay — if it were spelled ocolatechay people might think they’re supposed to pronounce the e. And ass-hay — if I spelled it asshay it would be all too easy to get confused and put a shhh sound in the middle of the word.

Really short words
IMHO, things are much more fluid if you don’t bother with the short words — I, in, on, or, who, etc. — just leave them the way they are.

Potbellied pigs have become a popular pet due to their gentle nature, amazing intelligence and appearance. The general physical characteristics of a potbellied pig are an exaggerated round stomach, short legs, swayed back, and continuously wagging straight tail. On their small heads are short, erect ears and a short to medium length nose. They have from black, to taupe, to blue eyes. The acceptable body colors are black or white or a combination of the two colors, with each pig having different markings.

Piglets Birth to 6 Weeks

Most piglets under the age of 2 months have three things on their minds establishing their position in their herd, survival and eating. Because of this, it is important that your baby pig be given the opportunity to learn all its young pig lessons from its mother and littermates. It is recommended that your piglet be at least 6 weeks of age before it is weaned and should not be taken from its litter until it is at least 7 weeks old. It is important that each piglet be given the opportunity to adjust to life without mother prior to separation from its littermates. There is a definite indication that, through early weaning and/or bottle-feeding, a potbellied pig is extremely likely to become aggressive between the ages of 1 and 2 years.

Piglets are much smarter than one would expect. They are fourth down on the intelligence scale – human, primates, dolphins/whales, pigs. They are born with their eyes open and are running within an hour. They begin their piglet lessons the very first moment they breathe air. It only makes sense that an animal as intelligent as a pig can be psychological scarred through incorrect handling by the inexperienced, well-intentioned pet owner. Many pet owners inadvertently abuse their piglet due to lack of understanding of the baby pig’s needs. Early weaning only makes this problem worse.

The breeder is a critical part in the development of a well-adjusted, healthy pet pig. What happens to the piglet from birth, through weaning, to adoption is very important. The experienced breeder has developed personal, proven techniques for providing care and socialization for her piglets. She is always concerned about the health and environment of her whole herd, but she is most especially concerned about her mothers and babies. The reputable breeder has a vaccination, feeding and training program designed especially for their mothers and piglets. The good breeder knows the personality of each of her mother pigs and adjusts her strategy for caring for the new babies based on this knowledge.

It is the breeder’s responsibility to have all the pigs neutered and spayed at or before 6 weeks of age. Boars do not make good pets due to their amorous nature and the odor produced by their musk glands, which are active in all intact male pigs. It is highly recommended that all females be spayed prior to adoption. Female pigs go into heat every 21 days. Many of them have PMS during their 6-day cycle and are prone to frequent urination during this period. Spaying by the breeder’s Veterinarian prior to weaning can help solve both of these problems. Should you get an unsprayed female, it is important to have the baby pig spayed as young as possible, preferably before it is 3 months old. It should be noted that spaying a female pig is more risky than spaying a cat or dog due to the enormous blood supply to the pig’s uterus. Early spaying by an experienced Veterinarian can prevent a tragic result.

Piglet 6 Weeks to 3 Months

This is the age that most pet owners adopt their piglet. There are several interesting issues about the piglet’s nature. All piglets that are still with their litter act as a single unit. They play together, they eat all at once and they urinate together. They do everything together. Pigs are prey and herd animals. They look to their herd or litter for protection and security. Piglets are very curious creatures and love to investigate any new addition to their environment. They are very intelligent, have long term memories, can problem solve and can think laterally, by applying the answer of one situation to another situation. Baby pigs learn very quickly and remember everything. At this age, piglets are looking for a replacement for their litter because they need the security and reinforcement that is missing due to being separated from their littermates. They actually adopt their new human family as their herd. During this time, patience, consistency and a loving but firm hand are the watchwords for dealing with a baby pig.

Teens 3 Months to 12 Months

Most pigs are eager to please their owners. They respond well to love and praise just as the young child does. Because of their uniquely high IQ, that of a 5-year-old child, they learn quickly and have very inquiring minds. They want to please, but do not have enough life experience to accomplish this. They remember everything you wish they would forget. Pigs this age are constantly checking out the newest additions to their environment. They are making up games for themselves that you would prefer they would not. At about 3 or 4 months, they begin to test their boundaries. They may challenge the authority of the pet owner for the first time. Pigs are hierarchical in nature and are jockeying for the position of top pig in their herd. And to top it all off, they become more self-centered and want things their own way. Their hearing may become “selective” and they may even ignore your requests. They are testing their position in their new family. This is a typical teenage pig.

Due to the challenges pig owners experience during this period, adolescent pigs run a high risk of being abandoned or taken to a shelter. Some pig owners are taken by surprise with the normal maturation, behavior and needs of the young pig. Others are so wrapped up in how cute and adorable their new piglet is that they let it get away with anything its heart desires. Adolescence can be a trying time for the pet pig owner. Eventually the adolescent pig will mature from its teenage period and move on to adulthood. The time you spend training your pig during this period will provide you pleasure for years to come. Have a sense of humor and enjoy your young pig’s unique personality and behavior.

One To Five Years

As the pet pig moves from a teenager to an adult, many pet owners say that somewhere between one and two years their pig “gets the hang of what is expected” by their family. The need for the continuous monitoring and training, which has been required for the younger pig, is greatly reduced. The older pig seems to more clearly understand the expectations of their human caregivers. The early training necessary to have a well-adjusted house pig begins to really pay off. They move into a full, cooperative member of the family.

The following suggestions can help you maintain this cooperation and broaden your pig’s prospective. Potbellied pigs, just like children, are much more comfortable with the same routine every day. It is important to try and maintain this routine as your pig ages. Along with the normal feedings, time outside, and quality family time, a time regularly scheduled for pig trick training can be fun for you, your family and your pig. Whenever you teach your pig a new trick or a new way of “being” with your family, remember patience is a virtue. Your pig will respond much more positively if it learns in increments and under as little stress as possible. Teaching instead of punishing always works best.

Since pigs are so intelligent, they can be manipulative in nature. They can want things their own way. It is important for you to be consistent in your requirements. As your pig ages make sure it continues to live up to the level of performance you and your family expect.

When pigs grow older and their environment always stays the same, they get bored. To ward off trouble due to boredom and to simulate the pig’s wonderful mind, offer a variety of life experiences and play things. Make sure the pet pig gets ample time outside to graze and play and root. This is an excellent time to teach pet pig tricks. Potbellies learn very quickly and teaching tricks can be great fun and a source entertainment for the whole family. When your pig is home alone, provide it with appropriate activities and games to occupy its time. Change its toys frequently. Adding new simulation on a regular basis will help prevent pig boredom. A bored pig can and will make up its own games. Also, consider taking your pig to nursing homes and schools, to the park and games, and to other public and family events. A pig with a broad life experience is a much better pet.

Somewhere between one and two years old some potbellies can become aggressive to their family members or family friends. It is commonly believed that this can be attributed to weaning prior to 6 weeks, piglet bottle-feeding, genetics of the pig’s parents, spoiling the pig during the first year by allowing them to set their own rules, or mishandling/abuse while the pig is maturing.

Should your adult pig show any signs of aggression to any family member or friend, it is imperative that you begin retraining immediately. In most cases this aggressive trait can be overcome with proper training. Without proper retraining this aggression will only escalate. Note: Refer to Chapter Five.

Over Five Years

As potbellies age new concerns are presented to the pet owner. The days of their active youth begin to fade away and they tend to lead a more sedimentary life style. The potbellied pig’s nutritional needs also change as they age. In middle age they may not need the same amount of food as they once did when they were younger. As the pet pig ages watch its diet closely so that it does not become obese. To help prevent obesity a change in the type/level of their food should be considered; as well as, a change in the amount of food the pig actually eats. Monitoring the pet pig as it moves into old age is very important to help it stay healthy.

When the aging pig begins to slow down its activity, it is wise to think of new ways to motivate the potbelly to exercise. If the pet owner establishes an exercise routine, such as walks or trick learning, it will be easy to keep the older pet pig motivated. What training is started early can just be continued through these years. Alternating toys helps to stimulate the mind of the pig, thus keeping it more active. Another trick is to sprinkle the pig’s morning meal over a broad area like the backyard. This provides the aging pig with a longer period of moderate exercise as it searches for each piece of pig food.

When the pig is about ten years it will move into old age. New strategies must be utilized to help and stimulate the aging pig. The elder pig may not be able to jump up as it use to. It will be sleeping more and exercising less. Old age diseases such as arthritis and other joint or tendon problems may arise. Watching for changes in the pig’s eating habits and activities can help you determine the start of a potential health problem. Annual check ups, vaccinations and worming are important through out the life of your pet pig and should not be stopped as your pet pig ages. It can be expected that with good nutrition and proper care the potbellied pig can live for ten to fifteen years.

As you research potbellied pigs, always be honest with yourself. Think about your community. Does your community have pet pig restrictions? It would be wise for you to contact your local animal control organization or city hall to make certain that your city has an ordinance allowing pet pigs. Many communities have restrictions, which include the pig’s size, numbers, neuter/spay requirements, the size of your yard.

Think about your home. Do you have the proper environment required to adequately care for a potbelly? Do you have a fenced outside area that will allow your pig outside time and space? Is your home arranged so that your pig can have its own place so that can easily be blocked off, if necessary? All pigs need somewhere they can call their own for discipline or if the household becomes too active.

Analyze your lifestyle as well as the physical characteristics of your home and grounds. Are you gone a lot? Who will watch your pig? Potbellied pigs require a great deal of psychological care. They do not do well when left alone for long periods of time without attention. If you travel frequently and you do not have the time to give to your pig when you are home, you might want to consider adopting a different type of pet. As a companion pet, they require continuous love and attention.

How will the arrival of your pet piglet impact the other animals in your home? Piglets need to have special attention paid when they are introduced to the pet dog and other family pets. And, your current pets may require a little more love and care during the transition period.

Do you have the time necessary to properly train your pig? It is extremely important that you train your piglet from the very first moment. This can be a fun and challenging experience. Potbellied pigs have amazingly high IQs and need stimulation from those around them. Most pigs get into trouble because their owners do not provide them the proper training and stimulation they need to live happily in their new home. If you do not have the time to spend in training your pig, then a pig is not the right pet for you.

Be sure and talk to breeders and other pet pig owners. Ask lots of questions. Remember that there are no stupid questions. Conscientious breeders will eagerly answer your questions and share their experience and knowledge with you. It is best to change your mind about owning a potbellied pig before you adopt a pig.

It is recommended that you adopt a piglet from a responsible and well-respected breeder. The risk is too great to your family to deal with breeders who are in question. Responsible breeders are concerned with the betterment of the breed. They work hard to breed only healthy, happy piglets, both mentally and physically. You can tell if you are talking to a reputable breeder because they basically will give you the same information. Should you talk to a breeder, who is out of line regarding price, size, feeding instructions, or how to socialize and care for your baby piglet as it grows up, it would be very wise to not adopt a piglet from that breeder. Also all reputable breeders have guarantees attached to their pigs and provide ongoing consultation to their pet owners.

After you have chosen a breeder, screen her carefully. Visit the breeder’s home, if at all possible, so that you can see the parents of her piglets. Notice how the pigs and breeder interact. Do the breeder’s own pigs act friendly to her or do they shy away? Should you be unable to visit the breeder’s home then do the next best thing and talk to other people who have adopted piglets from this breeder. The breeder is always willing to give you a list of her other pet owners and how to contact them, of course with the pet owner’s permission. Also, realize the responsible breeder is screening you too. She wants to make sure her piglets go to the very best possible home. If the breeder seems too anxious to place her piglets this could be another warning sign to you.

This is not the time to hunt for a bargain. Your new pig will be a member of your family for up to fifteen years, so you certainly want to make a wise investment. Realize that each breeder has individual pricing policies. Generally breeders who are dedicated to producing pigs of excellent quality and who properly care for all of their pigs can demand a higher price. Remember you get what you pay for. Paying a higher price for a piglet that has been registered, vaccinated, socialized, spayed/neutered and cared for properly from birth by a reputable breeder will be well worth it. You are adopting the breeder as well as the piglet. Make sure that you feel good about the communication you establish with your breeder. You will be contacting her throughout your pig’s life for more advice.

The purchase price of your pig is not the only cost you have to consider. The piglet you take into your family will need proper care such as food, health care (vaccinations, wormings, tusk and hoof trimmings). Your piglet should be spayed or neutered by the breeder prior to placement in your home. It is up to you to provide a bed, harness, leash, and bowls. Establish the cost of properly caring for a pig in your area, evaluate your budget, and ask yourself if you really can afford a potbellied pig.

After answering these questions and educating yourself about potbellied pigs, you are finally ready to decide if a pig is the right pet for you and your family. There is no doubt that there is nothing cuter than a baby piglet, but remember this is a living being and a huge responsibility. They definitely require time and attention. They can be an excellent choice for people who truly love small children and animals. Potbellied pigs are gentle and loving creatures, but are not for every family.

The actual cause of “dippity pig” is not known. It is thought “dippity pig” can be allergy related. The condition does appear to be more prevalent in the spring and summer with seasonal photosensitization and sunburn.

Treatment of “dippity pig” is first aimed at controlling the pig’s pain and relieving its stress. This can be done with anti-inflammatories, such as aspirin or cortisone. Aspirin, which is readily available, is usually adequate to relieve the pig’s pain. More severe cases might need the more “potent” medications, Cortisone or Butorphanol. Cortisone and Butorphanol will usually need to be prescribed by your Veterinarian.

Your pig will improve within 24 hours, and usually in less time than that, regardless of treatment. Since it is not clear if this is an allergic reaction many pigs suffering with “dippity pig” have been treated with antihistamines such as plain Benadryl. Even though it is unclear that these treatments are helpful to the pig, it is unlikely that they will hurt your pet.

The standard dose of Benadryl for pigs is one mg. per pound. A 25-pound pig can be given one Benadryl capsule. It is suggested that three capsules per 100 pounds of body weight is adequate. Aspirin can be given to a pig at a dose of 5 mg. per pound. This is equivalent to 1 1/2 regular aspirin for a 100-pound pig. Note pigs are susceptible to the irritating affect of aspirin on the stomach; therefore aspirin should always be given to a pig with food. Aspirin should only be given at twelve hour intervals and should not be given for more than 24 – 48 hours unless under a veterinarians supervision. If vomiting or diarrhea develops, aspirin should be immediately discontinued. Do not give pigs any product containing acetaminophen or ibuprofen.

You know your pig better than anyone. The information your Veterinarian will need when you call is Name, Sex, intact/neutered, age and weight. You will need to tell the Vet exactly what the pig’s medical symptoms and condition are, the reason you are calling and if there have been any recent changes in the pig’s condition. How the pig is eating and drinking is also important information. Your Vet may ask how the pig is eliminating and the consistency of stools and the urine’s appearance. It is a good idea to have your pig’s respiration rate and temperature available. To take a pig’s temperature use a lubricated rectal thermometer and insert it into the pig’s rectum. Should your pig exhibit any of the following symptoms it is time to call your Veterinarian.

• Difficulty breathing or irregular respiration – too fast, too slow,
• Normal respiration 10 – 20 per minute
• Rapid pulse/heart rate
• Normal pulse rate 58 – 86 per minute
• Low or Elevated Temperature – under 100 or over 105
• Normal temperature 102 – 103.6 F
• Acting aggressively
• Persistent vomiting for more than 24 hours, especially if yellow
• Not eating for more than 24 hours
• Diarrhea for more than 24 hours
• Constipation for more than 48 hours
• Lying down and not wanting to get up for more than 8 hours
• Persistent Lameness, not wanting to get up, inability to walk on all four legs
• Painful abdomen
• Persistent bleeding
• Blood in stool
• Seen eating something poisonous
• Toxic Plants, Antifreeze, Arsenic, Chemicals, Rodent Poisons, Chocolate,
• Drugs, to much Salt, blue/green Algae, Lead by ingesting lead based
• products, Zinc by ingesting zinc based products and Pennies.
• Seen eating something obstructive
• Rubber Bands, Plastic Bags (vegetable, grocery), string
• Heatstroke
• Broken Bones, Dislocations
• Electric Shock
• Deep Puncture, Large Open Wound

There are basically two types of Veterinarians in private practice. Those who specialize in small animal care such as dogs and cats and who may or may not treat exotic animals, and those who specialize in large animal care such as horses and hogs. The general practice, small animal Veterinarian may not choose to have potbellied pigs as clients. And the large animal Veterinarian may only be use to treating large domestic hogs and not know some of the techniques and procedures needed to treat the miniature pig. So, finding a qualified Veterinarian may present a challenge in some areas of the country. The following methods of choosing a Vet can help you in your search. You can ask your breeder, ask your current Vet if he does not treat potbellied pigs, and ask other pet pig owners for a referral. You can ask your local or national pig organization for recommendations or you can go online to search out a qualified Veterinarian.

Once you find a Veterinarian who treats pigs it is wise to verify the exact experience this Vet has with the pet pig. Some key questions to ask are how many pig clients is the Vet currently seeing, is the Vet comfortable treating potbellied pigs, and can the Vet come to your home, if necessary. Other issues to discuss are is the Vet open to learning more about the medical care needed for the pet pig and does the Vet have access to other professionals who can aid in diagnosis, treatment, or procedures.

An excellent option is to acquire the services of a mobile Veterinarian who will come to your home. If you were fortunate enough to find this resource in your community, it would be wise to make sure this Vet has a portable Isofluorane unit on the mobile van.

Keeping Your Pig Inside

1. Pig Proof your House

Just like a toddler, a pot belly pig will get into all sorts of mischief. He will chew cords. He will open cabinet doors. Your little pet pig will even learn how to open your refridgerator door! Make sure furniture and anything that can be knocked over and/or broken is safely out of reach. He will also chew carpeting, walls, and root. But don’t worry! They are easy to teach when it comes to where this is appropriate, and where it is not. 

2. Piggy Space

It is also necessary to provide your little pet pig with somewhere he can  call his own. A room, a bed, or even a tent set up in the corner of the house. Anything  will work; a pot-bellied pig just needs somewhere to  call his own. Somewhere  that he knows he’ll be left alone by all other animals (people, too).

Keeping Your Pig Outside 

1. Cozy Housing

Your outside little pet pig will need some sort of shed or a kennel. This will give him the space he needs while protecting him from the weather. An outdoor pig prefers straw for bedding. Straw keeps them warm on cold nights! Or, better yet, get him a little buddy. Another pot belly pig to sleep with means they can snuggle together and share body heat.

Whether you decide to keep your pot belly pig indoors or outdoors is ultimately up to you. Whatever your preference is, there are preparations to be made. A happy and healthy little pet pig is what every responsible owner wants, after all.

Pot Bellied Pigs and Cats

Possibly the best as far as other pets go, these little pet pigs and cats get along well together. Maybe this is a size issue? Or perhaps a dominance one. No one is sure on why, but if you think your pig needs another animal friend, consider getting a cat.

Pot Bellied Pigs and Dogs

Although it is very possible for pot belly pigs and dogs to get along together, do not leave them together, alone. Ever. You could wind up with some serious pet drama! In the wild, dogs are predators, and pigs are prey. So be careful and always supervise your little pet pig when he is with a dog.

Pot Bellied Pigs and Children

Because pig are a dominant species, sometimes, the two do not mesh well together. They often see children as weak, and try to dominate them. This is not true for all pot belly pigs, however. Many get along fine with children! Some simply need to be taught the “pecking order,” so to say. Pigs are very smart; just teach them that they need to respect all humans.

When you’re training your pig to respect you and your family, please do not use physical force. Not only is it cruel to hit an animal of any kind, but these little pet pigs have an amazing memory! Your pig will remember that you and/or anyone else hit him, and never respect your family.

Pot Bellied Pigs and Goats

Depending on the disposition and behavioral traits of both the pig and the goat, these two can get along very well. Keep an eye on them, however, because goats like to head-butt. And a goat, head-butting a pot belly pig could cause some serious damage!

Pot Bellied Pigs and Horses

Again, whether or not these two species get along depends on the individual animals. Some get along, and some don’t. Be careful putting your little pet pig with a playful horse, as the size differences may have dire consequences.

Some animals do great around pot-bellied pigs, while others do not. So please, before you bring a little pet pig, or other animal, into your life consider how well they’ll get along. The same holds true for children. The results if you don’t could be very serious!

That all-important decision has been made; you’re going to get a little pig for a pet.

Congratulations! Now you need to decide how you’re going to find the perfect pot bellied pig to add to your family.

Will you buy? Or adopt? Buying a Pot Bellied Pig There is no real market for these little pet pigs anymore.

There are still breeders out there, though. Just be sure to find a reputable one! Hopefully you can find a breeder who can help answer any questions you have about the breed, and will not sell you just any pot belly pig.

Rather, you want a pig breeder that cares whether thee pig suits you, and you suit him. Do not make your purchase quickly, do your research first! The Cost of Buying a Pot Bellied Pig The cost of buying these wonderful little pet pigs can vary anywhere from free on up. On average, expect to pay $300 to $700.

Just because one pig’s price is higher than another does not mean he’s more valuable. Another reason to do some pot belly pig research. Adopting a Pot Bellied Pig Quite a few animal sanctuaries and rescue centers are overflowing with abandoned pot belly pigs. If you adopt one, you will not be getting someone’s problem pet, but rather giving a loving home to an abandoned animal that needs a home.

Most pot-bellied pigs are at these sanctuaries because the previous owner didn’t do the research needed. Very few sanctuaries or rescue centers would even consider letting someone adopt a pig with behavioral problems.

The Cost of Adopting a Pot Bellied Pig Many animal sanctuaries or rescue centers will give you a pig for free.

Others may charge a small fee to cover the cost of spaying or neutering. Some may require a home visit, to make sure you’re prepared to add this unique little pet to your family.